Friday, May 1, 2009

Erenhot - Rush over the Rainbow Gate

Finally, after staying much longer than I had planned, I left the warmth and friendliness of Anda's Guesthouse in Hohhot. Arrived at the station just in time to board the bus for Erenhot, the only border crossing to Mongolia proper.

The scenery on the way was pretty much endless vast, dry grasslands, except for a 5-minute stretch before entering the city where metal dinosaur sculptures dotted the fields. I planned to stay in Erenhot for a night and take some photographs of the dinosaurs.

All signs in Erenhot are tri-lingual, with Cyrillic, Mongolian script, and Chinese.


Alima from Anda's had a Mongolian speaking friend living here, and I called him for help finding a place to stay and crossing the border. Unfortunately he was out of town, but his girlfriend met me at the bus depot. She told me that I had to leave immediately, because they were closing the borders for 3 days due to the Chinese 5/1 holiday. I learned that Mongolians are very wary of Chinese people, since their country is sparsely populated and they don't want hordes of Chinese entering. Being from Taiwan, I could understand.

The girl got me on a Mongolian jeep, negotiated in Mongolian, and found one that had a bilingual speaker that was also crossing the border.


Again, I heard from him how Mongolians dislike Chinese and he suggested that I should just tell people that I am from New York to avoid confusion since they might not be aware of the difference between China and Taiwan.

We passed a huge rainbow arch - the "country gate" - and crossed the border rather effortlessly to the Mongolian town of Zamyn-Uud. All of a sudden I found myself unable to understand anything anyone said or even read the signs.


The trains were full due to the border closing, so I couldn't get a soft sleeper, but I got a cheap hard sleeper that only cost about $6 US dollars for a 15 hour ride. And I was on my way.

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