bienvenidos a panama

This was seriously the worst border crossing ever. The 15 hour bus was freezing and actually took 18 hours. The border official wouldn't let me in unless I had a return ticket. I was forced to buy a bogus ticket from the slimy Ticabus guy who stood smirking next to the immigration window with a stack of bills.

But I am finally here. It only took 18 days.

pacific fishing dreams

another split second decision landed me in Tarcoles... an artisanal fishing village with an awesome cooperative that promotes ecotourism and sustainability. the highlight was a traditional fishing demonstration with Danilo the silly fisherman.



the fish was good. the people were good.

but this is my last detour. full steam ahead to Panamá.

Lazy Granada Days

Was deciding whether to stay a night in Managua when the sudden downpour forced me onto the bus.

MASAYAMASAYAMASAYAGRANADAGRANADAGRANADA screamed the bus guy. Beads of sweat flying in all directions from his body. Chill, dude. Then the bus driver got ticketed by the police for having too many people on the bus.

Granada and its faded façades called to me in a old hoarse voice that begged me to remember its long gone glory days, as if I had visited once a hundred years ago. It was tired. And I was tired.





But came midnight and I found myself dancing to deafening hiphop in an almost abandoned nightclub by the lake. And new friends.

So I decided to stay an extra day.

We couldn't find the choo choo train, but i got my laundry done and we played ping pong and drank iced coffees, my first ice coffee that didn't draw a disgusted and perplexed stare from the waitress.

At the end of the lazy afternoon, I looked out at the street from the coffee shop and finally remembered the glory days of Granada.

capitals

guatemala city is boring dangerous
tegucigalpa is fascinating dangerous
managua is just... boring

wonder what the next two capitals will bring

backroads of honduras, and a nice mountain town

15 buses and 2 pickup trucks, and the rarely visited Honduran backroads...

Left sweet but touristy Copán Ruinas in the early morn, but long after the other occupants in my room left to catch their respective even earlier buses.

Santa Rosa de Copan was boring, and my money ran out in Gracias which was sin ATM. Gracias, Gracias. Quiere go to THANK YOU? the kid on the bus asked me.

The guy at the bank pointed at the photo on my passport and pointed at my face. Oh god, here we go again. El foto hace diez años, sir. Yes, I was young and blonde once. Grabbed my money and hopped on first truck I saw to the next town.

I was probably the first tourist in San Manuel de Colohete for a long time. The locals were extremely friendly and welcoming... so I stopped and rested and smiled.

Es Paraiso

"Es paraiso," said Edgar, our driver, in such a peaceful, content tone that made me forget that Guatemala is one of the most dangerous countries in Central America.

And it sure was paraiso. And you can buy a cave here. With or without bats.

Volcan Pacaya and the existence of god

Staring out to the other three volcanos in the distance near the top of Volcan Pacaya.

"This makes me believe in the existence of god," Pinar said.

...and I agreed.

Pacaya had just erupted a month earlier...